Architecture on the Road
EXPLORING VIEUX LYON
The Vieux Lyon (‘Old Lyon’) is one of the most fascinating districts of the entire France, showcasing an invaluable collection of cultural heritages that can’t be missed by ones interested in local architecture and history.
The old district spans from the Saone River to Fourvière Hill, and is one of the most important cultural epicenters of France since ancient times.
It was born during the Middle Ages when its first churches were constructed, and mostly development during the Renaissance. It is here where the greatest silk artisans first opened their shops, and and wealthy merchants, bankers and lawyers used to live and making their businesses. Many of the ancient residences still retain the original facades of the era, providing a historical record of the main architectural styles that were used during this time: Gothic, Italian and French Renaissance, and the late ‘500. It is not uncommon to encounter sculptures and architectural elements that are perfectly preserved from the time they were created.
The paved cobblestone streets lined with ancient facades of pink and ocher colors are adorned with rusty old signs hanging outside shop windows and secret passages connecting buildings. These characteristics make Vieux-Lyon the largest living and best preserved Renaissance district in all of Europe; for this reason in 1998 was declared World Heritage Site under UNESCO protection.
The northern part of the neighborhood is the most popular among tourists with the renowned Rue St Jean. You can immerse yourself in the souvenir and art shops, or enjoy local cuisine at one of the traditional Lyonnaise restaurants (the “Bouchon”). The street also boasts ice cream shops, pubs, arts and crafts galleries, antique bookshops and comic stores. Tourists from all over the world walk this street from morning till night, making it a lively and crowded place.
The extreme south of the neighborhood is the perfect place to find some calm and tranquility. It is less chaotic than iTs northern counterpart and the tourists are much more sparse. You will find a couple curious visitors walking down these streets and alleys, but the majority of the people here are true locals. This part of the neighborhood can provide insight into the experience and daily life of the residents.
One of the most fascinating features of Lyon are the Traboules, a network of covered alleys that cross several buildings and connect parallel streets through secret passageways. Walkin down a traboule will led you through dark and mysterious passages, small courtyards with wells, arches and columns, statues, spiral staircases, wrought iron gates, galleries and arcades covered by vaults, discovering unique fascinating spaces and the atmosphere of old ages.
The neighborhood of Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse are home to the most of the traboules of the city, granting visitors a glimpse into the past. The architecture of the traboules is a distinctive characteristic of Lyon, providing one of it’s most interesting and unique architectural heritage.
The word “traboule” derives from the Latin “trans ambulare,” and means, “to go through.”
The first record of the traboules dates back to the 4th century when the city of Lyon was known as Lugdunum, the capital of Roman Gaul. For many centuries the traboules were used by the common people to quickly retrieve water from the Saone river, while merchants and artisans used them to transport their precious goods, in particular the silk, which was one of the most thriving industries of the city, especially flourishing during the Renaissance.
The traboules also had a very important role in World War II as secretive places to hide the clandestine resistance. Only the local inhabitants knew of the traboules’ existence, which were used as shortcuts and shelters to flee from the German occupation forces.
There are said to be more than 300 Traboules in Old Lyon, but many of them are privately owned and closed to the public. Those currently accessible by tourists are the result of an agreement between the residents and the city. It is therefore important to respect the quiet and privacy of those who live there (as you are reminded by many posters). If you do not find a door open, you can try to push the service button … and with a little luck you will have found a passage to explore!
EXPLORING VIEUX LYON
The “Longue Traboule”
rue Saint-Jean / rue du Boeuf
As the name states, the Longue Traboule is a remarkably long traboule, the longest in Lyon. It connects the 54th of rue Saint-Jean to the 27th of rue du Boeuf, passing through four small courtyards on different levels. There is a labeled metal plate outside the door to help visitors find the main entrance so so you have no excuses to miss it.!
Maison des Avocats ( “House of the Lawyers’)
60 rue Saint-Jean.
La Maison des Avocats hosts today the Museum of Miniatures and Cinema, and is a beauty of architecture. Built at first during the Middle Ages and further developed during the Renaissance, the mansion served as an inn for the burgeoning merchant population. More recently it has been beautifully restored, and is best viewed along rue de la Bombarde which runs parallel. A pleasant little square opens to the side and invites you to visit a cross-section of the block, where you can admire the spiral staircases, windows, loggias, and stoneworks. The coloring of the walls create a warm cozy atmosphere. I seat on a bench eating my pocket lunch and looking around. I’m happy not to be in rush cause the atmosphere is so pleasant that I might be sitting here all day enjoying the company of visitors, birds and the bronze Lion statue. Gorgeous, seriously.
60 rue Saint-Jean.
La Maison des Avocats hosts today the Museum of Miniatures and Cinema, and is a beauty of architecture. Built at first during the Middle Ages and further developed during the Renaissance, the mansion served as an inn for the burgeoning merchant population. More recently it has been beautifully restored, and is best viewed along rue de la Bombarde which runs parallel. A pleasant little square opens to the side and invites you to visit a cross-section of the block, where you can admire the spiral staircases, windows, loggias, and stoneworks. The coloring of the walls create a warm cozy atmosphere. I seat on a bench eating my pocket lunch and looking around. I’m happy not to be in rush cause the atmosphere is so pleasant that I might be sitting here all day enjoying the company of visitors, birds and the bronze Lion statue. Gorgeous, seriously.
Hotel Bullioud
8 rue Juiverie
Built in 1536, in the Hotel Bullioud you can find the courtyard and the gallery dedicated to his Architect, Philibert Delorme, who claimed to have invented a new architectural element, the “conical vaulted gallery,” which covers many of the traboules of the district. This guy was also one of the architects of the Castles of Loire… A quite talented man indeed!
Traboule de la Tour Rose (The Pink Tower)
22 Rue du Bœuf
This short and well maintained traboule opens up into a charming pink pastel courtyard that is dominated by its main attraction, the watch tower, that was built during the Renaissance. One of the defining features of this tower are the arched windows that follow the course of the internal spiral staircase (not open to the public). Highly recommended for pink lovers.
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